North Beach
San Francisco’s historic Little Italy: bakeries, pizza counters and cafes around a sunny central square, with Telegraph Hill views above.
About North Beach
North Beach is the old Italian quarter and the city's literary neighborhood, the place where the Beats read poetry upstairs at City Lights and where you can still buy a salami from a counter that has been selling them since 1896.
It is compact and dense, wedged between Telegraph Hill and Russian Hill, with a flat spine along Columbus Avenue and steep climbs on either side. Washington Square is the middle of it: tai chi in the morning, dogs and sunbathers by noon, and the twin spires of Saints Peter and Paul across the street.
There has been turnover since 2020, and some long-running places have closed. What remains is still the best walking-and-eating neighborhood in San Francisco.
How far is it?
- Fisherman's Wharf0.8 mi · a 12 minute walk downhill
- Union Square1 mi · a 20 minute walk, or a short bus ride
- Golden Gate Bridge3.5 mi · 12–18 min drive
- Golden Gate Park4.5 mi · 15–20 min drive
- SFO airport14 mi · 25–40 min drive; BART from Montgomery St
Getting here: Both Powell cable car lines run along the edges, the 8, 30, 39 and 41 buses serve it, and the F-line streetcar is a short walk down at the waterfront. Two garages on Vallejo Street; street parking is scarce and the hills are steep.
What to see
Washington Square
The neighborhood’s front lawn, with morning tai chi, a playground nearby and the church framing every photo.
Saints Peter and Paul Church
The Italian cathedral of the West, with twin spires. Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe posed on these steps in 1954.
Coit Tower
A 1933 art deco tower with WPA murals around the base and a 360-degree view from the top. Open daily, 10am to 6pm in summer.
The Filbert Steps
A wooden staircase through cottage gardens, with the wild parrots of Telegraph Hill overhead. Steep and not stroller friendly.
City Lights Booksellers
Founded in 1953 by Lawrence Ferlinghetti, still an independent bookstore and publisher, open daily until 10pm.
Molinari Delicatessen
An Italian deli since 1896, with salami hanging from the ceiling and a line for sandwiches at lunch.
Things to do
Joe DiMaggio Playground
A big playground with a pool and rec center next door, named for the neighborhood’s most famous son.
Walk the Filbert and Greenwich Steps
Down one and up the other is about an hour, with gardens, cottages and parrots along the way.
Browse City Lights, then have coffee
The classic North Beach afternoon. The poetry room is upstairs.
Focaccia from Liguria Bakery
They bake one thing and close when it sells out, usually by midday. Cash only. Take it to Washington Square.
Ride a cable car
Both Powell lines pass the neighborhood, and boarding here avoids the long queue at the Powell Street turntable.
Where to eat
Liguria Bakery
Focaccia by the slab, sold since 1911, mornings only and cash only.
Golden Boy Pizza
Square Sicilian slices eaten standing up. The clam and garlic is the order.
Molinari Delicatessen
Build your own Italian sub. Take it to the square.
Tony’s Pizza Napoletana
A world pizza champion making a dozen styles. Expect a wait; the counter next door is faster.
Il Pollaio
Simple grilled chicken plates in a small room. Unfussy and reliable with kids.
Sotto Mare
Cioppino in a tiny loud room, with a wait most nights.
Mara’s Italian Pastry
Cannoli filled to order.
Upcoming in North Beach
Family favorites in North Beach
Coit Tower
Golden Boy Pizza
Joe DiMaggio Playground
Washington Square
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